electrical system

[Dust]

showed a schematic that B&C sent me from aero electric.

MPLafleur explained it some, a guy that hangs at the terminal bldg went over it with me, explained the magic on how an alternator works, the diagram crossover switch, main bus, secondary bus, etc, etc. Explained that we need more volts in the alternator than are in the battery to get it to charge, that is why we have 14 volt alternators to charge 12 volt batteries and 28 for 24, etc.

I've collected a few techniques over the years.

USE crimps, not solder - i have the proper tools $$$$ and any i don't have my buddy that makes wire harness will loan me.

Use crimp and solder on battery connection to prevent corrosion.

Use proper wire - Will do - see the last item.

The best switch is NO SWITCH, thank you jim price

The best connector is NO CONNECTOR, thank you jim price

QUALITY switches and connectors are a must - learn to read the duty cycle ratings on all items used. Some that have been supplied to me were surprisingly low and have been replaced or are going to be.

Strain/stress relieve all connections, if you forget then "liquid tape" works well

Use vibration resistant hold downs, a tie wrap around a bundle with a tie wrap in it and that tie wrap is secured.

The best marking system is the one i have.

Don't nick the wire when stripping, i have teledyne thermal wire strippers.

Use proper replaceable grommets so that they wear and not the wires passing through them, use firewall fittings at the firewall.

poor GROUNding is the root of all evil in electrical systems

Micro voltage requires gold plating because such low voltage does not arc and self clean

Just because something has an AN number does not make it good, just means it has an AN number. There is probably an AN number for buffalo chips, still shit but properly numbered.

[Dust]

well, the knowledge continues

using shielded wire where ever i come close to an antenna or the thingy that controls the efis, what is that thingy called, ahh yes a Magnetometer.

have enough for the wing lightsand strobes, a wiring i will go

[Dust]

Totally cool, the position & tail light requires 1.5 amp, so tonight i will pull 6 shielded wires., 3 for the strobe, 2 for the position and that leaves 1 spare. all 18 gauge

Good to go, my aim is to always pull spare wired for future use. in this case, one should be enough.

One of many wiring decisions made

[Dust]

Well, had to change my wiring, channel is not large enough for 2 18 gauge 3 wire shielded cables.

Now i am trying, and try is the important word because it is mostly failing to pull 1 3 18 ga wire shielded cable for the strobe and 1 twisted pair shielded wire for the lights.

On a better note, retained bob Nucholls to modify his schematic for my stupid bivoltage system.

12 and 24 volt requirements. After telling me that i made a bad decision, i of course admitted it, he agreed to help me modify his standard schematic and pick the converters to properly handle the loads

Another problem solved

[Dust]

today retained bob nucholls to modify his layout for my specific requirements.

Very smart man, gets to the point and understands my objectives

Did i say reasonable, yes.